Wednesday, July 18, 2018

Days 36-38


On Sunday, we went from the Snæfellsnes peninsula to the Westfjords.  We first stopped at the home of Erik the Red, who established the first settlement in Greenland.  We went inside a turf house replica of his house and listened to a story about Erik the Red’s life.  I learned that Icelanders back then slept sitting up and that all that driftwood their houses were made of came from Siberia.  Next, we drove to the Hólar petting farm which we were invited to visit since our van driver (my distant cousin Kent) knows the owner of the farm.  The farm had many types of animals including sheep, horses, bunnies, turkeys, guinea pigs, a crow, chickens, an artic fox, and cows.  




Then we drove to the Museum of Icelandic sorcery and witchcraft in Hólmavík.  There we were able to catch the last 15 minutes of the final World Cup match between France and Croatia.  The museum displayed magical symbols and ingredients necessary for performing certain magical powers.  Next to each magical sign, it explained the steps required to achieve the magical powers such as making oneself invisible, how to gain wealth, or raising the dead.  All of the processes were very specific about the random assortment of materials needed.  The museum also explained the witch trials in Iceland and that 21 people were burnt for witchcraft.  

After the museum we went to Strandir in the Westfjords where we camped in tents at a campsite that night.  The weather was cloudy with rain and wind when we arrived.  At least there was a shelter we could cook and eat dinner in at the campground.  As we started pitching the tents, I could tell that camping outside was going to be a bad idea.  With the campsite being located to the coastline, we were exposed to strong winds and the constant rain didn’t help.  Nevertheless we pitched the tents.  After dinner we drove to a pool called Krossneslaug down the road.  The pool was outdoors and had very plain facilities (no lights inside, thankfully it’s daylight most of the time here).  We floated around in the pool from around 11:30pm-1am before going back to the campsite.  When we went to go sleep in our tents most of them were already soaked through.
I didn’t end up sleeping much with the wind continually knocking against the side of the tent and pushing the top of the tent into our faces.  In the morning we shared stories of tents leaking overnight.  One of the tents was so wet that the people sleeping in it had to go to the shelter with the kitchen for the night.  It had been a long night for everyone and the mood was rather low.  We ate breakfast and tried to warm up before having to take the tents down again in the terrible weather.
On Monday we were driving to Skagafjörður which was about a five and half hour’s drive.  I and most of the others slept on the bus for the first several hours since we were so tired from the night before.  On the way we stopped at a place to go river rafting on the West Glacial River.  So we got off the bus at the river rafting company, some of us still semi-wet, and prepared to go rafting.  We put on wetsuits and extra waterproof shirts.  Inside the rafts it was a fun experience.  The rapids were rather mellow but this was good since most of the Snorri participants hadn’t been rafting before.  We travelled through a canyon with grass and waterfalls on the each side.  We passed by sheep and hot springs several times along the route.  All the guides were Nepalese men who said they lead rafting trips in Iceland during the summer months then go to Nepal to lead rafting trips there the rest of the year.  We stopped at the side of the river after about 30 mins next to a natural hot spring and they made us hot chocolate!  Then we stopped later where there was a 10-12 foot rock for us to jump off into the 35-41°F river if we wanted to.  I didn’t jump because my clothes weren’t soaked yet and I wanted to conserve my dry clothes after the camping experience the previous night.
After rafting we drove to the campsite in Skagaströnd and ate dinner at a restaurant in town.  Pitching the tents was a lot nicer after dinner since the weather was sunny with mostly clear skies.  The low sun in the sky was beautiful as we set up our tents.  That night was great for camping – cold but no rain or wind so everyone was happier on Tuesday.

The next day started with us visiting the Museum of Prophecies in town.  At the museum we learned about the different types of fortune telling that Icelanders have used in the past.  One of the types was intestine readings where they removed the intestines of the first pig killed at the end of summer to “read” the intestines for how the winter conditions would be.  Pieces of bone were another thing used in a similar way to a magic 8 ball for answering yes and no questions about the future.  At the end of our visit, the museum guide had a bag of small sheep bones with ruins carved on them and let us blindly draw one to read us our fortunes.  Mine was that I have trouble around me right now but it will leave soon.  Those around me joked that the ‘trouble’ was the Snorri participants.


It was a day of beautiful blue skies and sun with breathtaking mountain views across the fjord as we drove from Skagaströnd to Reykir in Skagafjörður.  

At Reykir we caught a boat to Drangey Island where we got a tour.  Drangey Island is located in Skagafjörður and is about 170 meters high with sheer rock cliffs on some sides.  After the short boat ride to island we climbed up a steep path to the top of the island.  I was thankful that the path had a hand rope since some areas were steep and with the ocean below me I didn’t want to feel unsecure.  The island is home to many types of birds that we got to see including puffins!  The air on the top of the island was so warm that I couldn't believe it.  I assumed being in the middle of the fjord would be windy and cold but on the contrary Drangey was calm and sunny - a perfect place to sit in the grass and relax by yourself as you enjoy a beautiful view. 






Finally, after the tour we drove to the small coastal town Hófsos where we are staying the next two nights!  Hófsos was so sunny and hot that all the Snorri took some lawn chairs and hung out at the top of a hill on the coast with this view below.  It was a great end to an awesome day!




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